Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. Okay, try my method. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. I did change the -40 thing also. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. Without it you are working in the dark. The small rubber plug had a leak. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. So you installed your Holley Sniper. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. 1. When I shut it off then start it (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. Thanks, That is an strange situation. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. Turned it off and on again. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. you have it set. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". Or is there something else I should Thank you very much. have the system learn the higher speeds? I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. One of them might be faulty. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. Thanks so much for reading! Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. Price Point: $$$. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Thanks Again for your help. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Always had to set idle above 950. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! Thank you so much for your follow-up. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. I've changed all the Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. I appreciate everything you are saying. I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. Clearly, something is changing. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. Let's start by not assuming anything. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. :-). Its timed to 36 degrees. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. All times are GMT-6. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. There is no real mystery here. Hi. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. i would have been happy to answer there. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . :-). During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. Hey Chris! Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. I will turn it up some. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Then it started behaving oddly. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. That is what I really respect about Holley. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. Is this normal ? If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. Hello Chris. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. It does this with the engine off. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the Several good bits here. That is not the way to go. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. :-). One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. My Sniper is 99% great! Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Holley Sniper Iac Delete First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). to. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. I.e. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. They are prone to be inaccurate. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening.

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